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The peacoat of the late 19th century was close fitting with a bit of a flair line on the hips so that the reefers could climb the ropes.
It is cut slightly longer than a regular jacket, but it remains shorter than a greatcoat to accommodate the specific job tasks of its wearers.
During WWI they often had 10 buttons, later 8 and now mostly 6 with one hidden button under the right collar.
Today, US Navy peacoats feature large (35-ligne) thick black plastic buttons.
Like many garments, the history of the peacoat may not be exact, but it has certainly left an indelible impression upon classic fashion.
The Oxford Dictionary dates the origin of the pea jacket or peacoat to the early 18th century, claiming that it was probably derived from the Dutch word for ‘jacket’.
Traditionally, officers, warrant officers or chief petty officers could upgrade their peacoats with these buttons.
Apparently, the tradition of this logo dates back to the personal seal of Lord Howard of Effingham, the Lord High Admiral of England, when the British defeated the Spanish Armada in 1588.Traditionally, it was made of 100% Kersey wool, just like the Melton for the British Warm.As pointed out above, the pilot fabric was a choice and later 100% wool Melton or Kersey was used, often in weights up to 34 oz. Today, you can still find 100% wool melton fabrics, but usually not heavier than 24 oz, which is a shame because the heavier fabrics wore quite warm in my opinion.In an issue from October 1868, they report about the so-called “the Prince of Wales Jacket” emerged, which characterized it as a loose double breasted jacket with three pairs of buttons, two cross pockets, and wide piping.When intended for rough use, the coat was made of blue pilot-cloth lined with wool.
Apparently, he sold particularly well in India, starting in 1888. Camplin supposedly suggested – at an unknown date – to create a coat for the uniform of petty officers, who had the same uniform as sailors up until then.