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A lone cow grazes on the fringes of the short runway.Trade winds, undulating palm fronds, scarlet hibiscus and white frangipani, purple prose material abounds.A guide is feeding a frenzy of Whitetips and Greys from a small bucket of fishy scraps. Overfishing has drastically reduced shark populations: superfluously supplying flavourless fins to expensive soups or posing as flake in fish and chips takeaways, sharks are suffering at the expense of our misinformed greedy appetites.From only a few metres away, the sharks dart like silver bullets missing one another by mere centimetres. The dive master warns me not to point at anything while I’m on the bottom at the feeding station. To be this close to a top predator in the wild is a wildlife lover’s objective, to observe without harm, blending into the background. Their slaughter has been augmented by drifting shark nets and our vengeful retaliation to ridiculously over-hyped shark attack stories.
A small hand-painted sign states simply, ‘Savu Savu’. [caption id="attachment_2095" align="alignnone" width="362"] Savu Savu airport terminal buidling.[/caption] The two pilots help unload the cargo.I pick up my bag from the tarmac and wave good-bye.It’s a classic South Pacific scene: idle, indolent and idyllic. Innumerable atolls and submerged reefs separate the two islands. Across Bligh Water at the western end of the Koro Sea my one hour flight first covers Viti Levu’s mountainous interior.
It’s very far from the packaged holiday trip most visitors to Fiji experience.